At our Columbia county Master Gardeners’ Spring Fair I had to opportunity to meet once again Sue Berg of New Dimension Seeds. We had a delightful albeit short conversation about Asian vegetables and Chinese cooking. It always excites me to talk with others about food and cooking particularly with such a passionate gardener as Sue. The subject of growing and cooking Asian vegetables is fascinating and although I had some general familiarity and experience with many of these vegetables, the subject has intrigued me more. It became my mission to find out as much about them, their culture and preparation, as I could. The coup de gras would be to continue the conversation with Sue and learn to cook in the manner of her heritage.
As I embarked on the quest, the information being sought was readily available from gleaning through seed catalogues, government publications, gardening books and of course, the Internet. One book that I found to be particularly useful is Oriental Vegetables by Joy Larkcom (Kodansha International, ©1991, ISBN 1-56836-017-7). Alice Waters of Chez Panisse describes it as “Indispensable for the gardening cook.”
Last month’s article focused on the greens from the Brassica family, by far the largest representation of Asian greens. There are yet some more, a group of miscellaneous plants that are well worth mentioning.
Edible Chrysanthemum (Chop Suey Green, Garland Chrysanthemum, Shungika, Tung Ho) – Chrysanthemum coronarium
An annual leafy plant growing very well in mild or slightly cold climates; best suited for early spring or autumn cultivation as it will go quickly bolt in warm summer conditions. Normally raised from seed but it can be propagated from soft cuttings taken in spring from over wintered plants and prefers fertile, moisture retentive soil
Uses: leaves and young stems are steamed, stir fried or used in soups; young leaves are good raw in salad; flower petals may be added to salads or soups
Mitsuba (Japanese green, Japanese wild parsley) – Cryptotaena japonica
With parsley like leaves on long slender, white stalks this plant grows vigorously in mild climates where is can be grown year round. Sow spring or early fall in very rich, moisture retentive soil. By nature it is a marsh plant and requires a lot of water. Blanch the stems by earthing up; strong celery flavor.
Uses: young seedlings used raw in salads; leaves and stems used in fish soups, Sukiyaki, and other Japanese dishes
Edible Amaranth (Yin Tsai, Chinese Spinach) - Amaranthus gangeticus
The Amaranth family is a large group of plants found in many areas of the world. Since ancient times the seeds and leaves of Amaranth have been used as food by man. This is a fast growing, leafy plant that is grown as a cut and come again. The seeds germinate at temperatures above 65° F under dark conditions. Prefers light, sandy, fertile, well drained soil amaranths like full sun but may benefit from light shade in hot summers.
Uses: Young leaves and stems may be cooked like spinach or other tender greens – steamed, stir fried or in soups
Water Spinach (Ong Choy, Rau maong, water convolvulus) - Ipomea aquatica
A semi aquatic tropical plant from the same family as morning glory and sweet potato has long hollow stems and lanceolate leaves. It has been introduces to the U.S. where its growth rate has caused it to become an environmental problem (especially in Florida and Texas). It has been officially designated as “noxious weed” by the USDA. Start the plant from seed and then transplant into a fertile, soil filled pool that may be flooded with water. Water spinach likes warm weather responding well to long day lengths but will not grow under low light conditions.
Uses: A common ingredient used in Southeast Asian and Chinese dishes being most often stir fried or used in soups
Malabar Spinach (Saan Choy) – Basella rubra var alba
This tender perennial vine grown as an annual has soft stems and thick succulent heart shaped leaves with a mild flavor and mucilaginous texture. It is very heat tolerant so makes a good choice for summer growing. Best grown from transplants, soak seeds for 24 hours then sow them into seed cells with soil temperature at 65 to 70° F. Transplant when 4 to 8 inches high into warm soil providing support in the form of canes or trellis by the time they reach 10 inches. Harvest side shoots leaving two basal leaves on the stem, picking fairly hard to encourage development of new leaves.
Uses: May be used to thicken soup or stir fried with garlic and chili; needs very little cooking or it will become slimy
Watercress – Nasturtium officinale
Watercress is as well known in Asian cultures as it is in the west. It is a semi aquatic plant found at lower elevations in moving water, irrigation ditches, seasonally flooded areas or springs. It has creeping stems and thick roots at the nodes and is generally grown for its pungent leaves and young stems. If you are interested in the cultivation of watercress (not enough space here), visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MV151
Uses: raw in salads or sandwiches, cooked in soups, stir fries, or braised
Chinese Chives (Nira, Chinese leek, garlic chives, Gau tsoi) – Allium tuberosum
Is it a green or an herb or both? This plant is familiar to many a westerner. It is easy to grow from seed, transplants or divisions, tolerates a wide range of soils but prefers soil that is light and rich in organic matter. This very adaptable plant tolerates both extremely cold and extremely hot temperature. The leaves are often blanched in Asian culture where they are prized as a delicacy.
Uses: Leaves, flower stems, flower buds and flowers may all be used cooked, raw or pickled. It is good with egg dishes, in soups or stir fries. The leaves may be bundled together, dipped in batter and deep fried. The leaves, especially the blanched ones make a delicate filling for steamed or pan fried dumplings.
Whatever Asian greens you choose to grow be a little daring and adventurous. Bring the Choy of Asian greens into your gardens and kitchens.
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