Garden To Table: Of Cabbages and Kings

"The time has come,' the Walrus said, "To talk of many things:Of shoes -- and ships -- and sealing wax -- Of cabbages -- and kings --And why the sea is boiling hot -- And whether pigs have wings.'

Lewis Carroll

The deep snow from our early winter storm had finally melted away so I decided to take a walk through the vegetable garden to see what had survived the tempest. Nothing it appeared; everything had turned to slime! A second look proved more fruitful – a few collards, some upland cress and even a few leaves of lettuce and spinach. And then I saw them – cabbages, great heads of cabbages looming in the garden like Victor Hugo’s Quasimodo hanging from the bell tower of the great Notre Dame cathedral. If artichokes and radicchio reign as supreme monarchs of the vegetable patch then cabbages must surely be of stalwart peasant stock – sometimes praised, sometimes maligned.

Cabbage was known to and praised by ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans for its medicinal properties (although this probably wasn’t the head cabbage we know today). European aristocracy, however, from the Middle Ages to the 18th century turned up their noses at the mere mention of this lowly vegetable. In fact, the nobles of that time disdained all vegetables, leafy ones in particular, believing them to be responsible for ill health. Since many of the common vegetables of that day – cabbage, beans, onions and garlic – were attributed to the ability to produce wind, they were of the attitude that vegetables might be acceptable for commoners but certainly not for those in aristocratic circles. Despite being snubbed by blue bloods, cabbage withstood the disparagement and remained a reliable staple of the poor playing a central role in their diets. Cabbage was devoured with great relish, especially during the cold winter months, as it was one of the few fresh staples available when the ground produced little else.

Historians disagree as to the origin of the head cabbage we know today but do agree that heads of cabbage started forming about the 1st century BCE. Some believe it to have originated in the Mediterranean cultivated from the wild mustard plant (wild cabbage, sea cabbage). Others say its evolution began in northern Europe selected from a wild perennial cabbage that still grows along the coast of England today. Some speculate that the cabbage of ancient references was actually a kale similar to the Nero di Toscano (black palm, dinosaur kale) of today. Nevertheless, many varieties of heading cabbage were well known and widely cultivated in both northern and southern Europe by the 13th century taking a place of preference over its cousin kale.

The cabbage family (Brassica oleracea) sports a large family tree of cruciferous vegetables including kale, broccoli, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Each has its own family branch or Group, heading cabbages belonging to the Capitata Group. Heading cabbages come in various shades of green as well as red and purple. Head shapes range from standard round to flattened to pointed. Most have smooth leaves but Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.

Being a hardy cool-season crop, cabbage does best under uniform cool moist conditions and grows especially well in fertile soil. They’re easy to grow and in our moderate climate a selection of cabbages is harvestable nearly year round. Just choose varieties that are best suited to each growing season from early spring through winter. Fertility requirements are relatively high and the timing of fertilizer application depends largely as to the time of year that cabbages are planted.

Cabbage can be direct sown or as a transplant. I have more success with transplants, starting the seeds in the greenhouse 6 to 8 weeks prior to transplanting. For the first spring planting I count back 8 to 10 weeks from the last projected frost, seeding the first starts in mid February. Territorial Seed recommends sowing early maturing varieties from March through June and later autumn-maturing varieties from late May to early June, which allows heads to form during the relative cool of fall. When seedlings are 6-8 weeks old with 5-6 true leaves they are ready to harden off and transplant.

Growing cabbage is not without its headaches especially when it comes to those nasty flea beetles and cabbage loopers. A sacrifice patch of arugula or turnips can divert the attention of the flea beetles but one of the best all around prevention methods is the use of floating row cover (I should be their poster boy). When all else fails, I resort to using rotenone/pyrethrum for flea beetles and Bt for loopers, following package directions of course. Harvest early cabbage promptly as they mature fast and burst quickly. Those later types that mature in late summer or autumn when growth rates are slow will often hold for several months. Over-mature heads are subject to splitting, especially if they are exposed to moisture fluctuations. One trick to help hold mature cabbage in the field is to give it a slight twist to sever some of the roots. The best rules of thumb though are to pick it when it’s ready and to choose an appropriate cultivar for the season in which it is being grown. Cut the heads from the stems and include 2 or 3 wrapper leaves to protect against bruising.

From a nutritional standpoint, cabbage is jam packed with vitamin C, fiber, iron, calcium and potassium as well as several B vitamins. It also contains significant amounts of glutamines, an amino acid, which has inflammatory properties. In European folk medicine, cabbage leaves are used to treat acute inflammations. Keep in mind when cooking cabbage, the longer it is cooked the lower the nutritional value.

Cabbage may still be considered a plebian vegetable in some circles today but its culinary versatility goes well beyond the over cooked boiled cabbage that so many have reckoned with. A savory cabbage soup will ward off the chill of the most bone chilling day. Red cabbage tossed with hot bacon dressing just until slightly wilted, garnished with bleu cheese and candied walnuts will evoke awes from even the most ardent of food snobs. Stir fry it lightly lacing it with Szechwan pepper and a splash of rice vinegar. Bake it with pork chops in cream lightly perfumed with fresh thyme and bay leaf. As a filling for tender dumplings, golden yeasty breads, or flaky strudel, cabbage acquires a new dimension. Transformed in any of these manners, the once lowly cabbage becomes a dish fit for a king. Admittedly, some of you may be thinking: “When pigs fly!”

From Garden to Table/ Odiferous Alliums: An Ode to the Stinking Rose

“Banish (the onion) from the kitchen and the pleasure flies with it. Its presence lends color and enchantment to the most modest dish; its absence reduces the rarest delicacy to hopeless insipidity, and dinner to despair.”

Elizabeth Robbins Pennell, American columnist


Take away my onions, garlic, leeks or shallots and I would be hard pressed to cook. One or more of these odiferous alliums form the basis of many a savory dish. Being a staple food, edible Alliums are fundamental to cooking. Aside from forming the flavor basis for everything from soups to stews, sauces, stuffings, casseroles and savory pies, these aromatic edibles are used in numerous other preparations either alone or in tandem with other ingredients. They can be roasted, baked, fried, sautéed, grilled, braised, stewed, pickled, marinated or simply used in a raw state. When you think about the myriad of cooking applications it is mind boggling.

Onions, green onions, shallots, garlic and leeks have been used as a food for millennia dating back to 5000 BC. There is, however, no conclusive opinion that pinpoints an exact location and time of birth. Ancient Egyptians worshiped them; Greek and Roman athletes revered them; people in the Middle Ages paid rent with them. Modern nutritionists tout so many health benefits of consuming them that it reads like a medical journal – sulfur compounds, chromium, lowers total cholesterol and triglycerides, antioxidants, vitamins B-6 and C, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial.

Odiferous Allium thy taste is sweet
When on my plate commence to eat
But flooding tears roll down my cheek,
While mincing thee provoke the air
Doest sting my eyes and make me weep.

Many plants of the genus Allium are known by the common name onion but this usually refers to Allium cepa, the globe onion, bulb onion, garden onion or shallot. As anyone who has chopped onions knows, they can bring tears to your eyes. As onions are cut, cells are broken causing a complex chemical reaction with sulfur based acids present in the onion. These acids turn volatile reaching the nerve endings of the eye making them sting. Tear glands produce tears to flush out the irritant. Using a sharp knife helps to minimize this reaction as does rinsing the onion in cold water after peeling. The best advice is just to do the task and get it over with.

Onions regulate stages of growth by the duration of the light/dark cycle at the particular time of year they are growing, thus they are categorized as long day, short day and day neutral. The amount of growth and development prior to bulbing will determine the bulb size. Long day varieties grow north of the Kansas/Oklahoma border so they are the best choice for gardeners in our local. Plant them as early as possible in spring from seed, sets or transplants to obtain growth prior to the longest day when they begin to bulb. Short day varieties, best suited for the South, need to be planted in the fall to obtain enough growth to make a large bulb earlier in the year when the days are shorter. Day neutral onions can be grown anywhere. Some onion varieties are grown strictly for fresh use (i.e. Walla Walla) and some for storage (i.e. Copra). Some are sweet in flavor and others hot. Onions grown from sets tend to prematurely bolt. Seed grown onions, whether direct seeded or transplants, are generally good keepers.

But in my garden you shall abide
In place of honor there,
An ode to you majestic lords
And royal ladies fair,
As I shall reap the bounty and harvest you with pride

Onion nomenclature can be quite confusing at times especially when it comes to describing shallots, scallions or green onions. The term shallot is actually used to describe two different Allium species – the French grey shallot, true shallot or grisell (Allium oschanirii) and the shallot or multiplier onion (Allium cepa var. aggregatum). Shallots and multiplier onions form a cluster of underground bulbs from each single bulb planted, much like garlic. To add to our bewilderment, the term shallot is confused with scallion. In some countries green onions are shallots and shallots are referred to by alternative names such as eschallot.

The Welsh onion (Allium fistulosum) does not develop bulbs and possess hollow leaves and scapes. In the vernacular these are Japanese bunching onions, green onions, spring onions and scallions (the latter three terms are sometimes applied to immature bulbing onions as well). Welsh doesn’t mean it comes from Wales but preserves the meaning of the Old English word meaning foreign, the species having originated in Asia.

The Tree Onion is a garden oddity being a cultivar-cross of Allium cepa and Allium fistulosum. Also called Top onion, Topset onion, Walking onion or Egyptian onion, this is an onion with a bunch of bulblets where a normal onion would have flowers. They can sprout and grow while still on the stalk, bending down under the weight giving rise to the name walking onion.

Garlic (Allium sativum) needs no introduction. It comes in two types: Softneck (subsp. sativum) and Hardneck (subsp. ophioscorodon). Softneck garlic produces 6-18 cloves in several layers around a soft central stem, has the best storage qualities and is great for braiding. Hardneck garlic typically produces 5-9 cloves per head which grow in a single circle around a central woody stem attempting to produce a flower stalk. The range and quality of flavor they exhibit is outstanding but hardneck types have a shorter storage life than softneck types.

Elephant garlic (Allium porrum var. ampeloprasum) does need an introduction or at least an explanation. Not garlic at all it is related to garden leeks. It takes two years to get cloves, the first year yielding only a single clove. This plant has a tall, solid, flowering stalk and broad flat leaves much like those of a leek with a flavor milder than garlic. If left alone, it will spread into a clump with many flowering heads making a lovely ornamental.

Leeks (Allium porrum) produce a long cylinder of bundled leaf sheaths which are blanched by hilling. The edible portion of the leek is the white base and light green stalk. Summer leeks are harvested young and in the season when planted. Over-wintering leeks are planted to harvest in the winter or the following spring. Leeks can be bunched and harvested early when they are about the size of a pencil or can be thinned and allowed to grow to a much larger mature size.

With some careful planning, one or more members of the Allium family can be grown in our gardens year round. Techniques and parameters for growing onions and other Alliums can be found in any good vegetable gardening book worth the paper it’s written on and the information available is encyclopedic. They all require well-dug, loose soil amended with lots of organic material, the same mantra we use for growing all of our vegetables. For a quick reference on growing requirements, check out the catalogue from Territorial Seed as well as the OSU extension web site (document EC 1231).

Oh leeks so sweet and onions strong, oh garlic’s pungent air;
Deprive me of the stinking rose
This life I should despair.

Carl Sandburg, the great American poet wrote: “Life is like an onion. You peel it off one layer at a time; and sometimes you weep.”

Take away my onions, garlic, leeks or shallots – that’s enough to make me cry!

From Garden to Table: Radicchio - Queen of Italian Vegetables

Donning regal robes of maroon and cream, radicchio reigns supreme among traditional Italian vegetables. Beloved by chef and gourmand alike, this often misunderstood red chicory endures a love or hate relationship among those that try it because of its slightly bitter nature.

Cultivated since the fifteenth century in the Veneto region of Italy, the deep red radicchio of today was developed by Belgian agronomist Franco Van den Borre. Van den Borre used a technique imbianchimento (whitening) or pre-forcing to create the dark red with white veined leaves. Plants are removed from the ground and placed in water or sand in a cool dark cellar. The lack of light inhibits chlorophyll production causing the plants to lose their green color. For those of us that have neither root cellar nor desire to go to such lengths, a paper bag or pot turned over each head for a while will produce somewhat similar results.

The Cichorium intybus – relatives of endives and escarole – commands a high price in produce markets and comes in the guise of several types and cultivars. Varieties of radicchio are named after the Italian regions where they originated.

Radicchio di Chioggia with its ball shaped head is the most commonly found type in supermarkets and include such cultivars as Palla Rossa, Rouge de Verone and Leonardo.

Radicchio di Treviso is elongated like a Belgian endive and has a distinctive tangy taste. Hard to find in US markets, it is highly prized in Italy as a favored vegetable to grill.

Radicchio di Castelfranco has a lovely yellowish cream leaf with red speckles. This beautiful and tender lettuce like ball unfolds like a rose making it the most regal of radicchios.

Radicchio di Puntarelle sometimes known as Italian dandelion is described by Nichols Garden Nursery as a dandelion on steroids. Puntarelle looks like an asparagus grown out of a fennel bulb covered by dandelion leaves. This rarity has slightly bitter undertones with crisp tender stems working well in stir fries or salads.

Radicchio di Tardiva comes from the more uncommon di Treviso. After first frost, a complex growing-forcing method is employed so the plant grows into a uniquely shaped strong plant. Tardiva is more flavorful than the milder Treviso with strong bitter accents and a crisp consistency. Sauté or dress with hot vinaigrette.

Although many folks that are familiar with radicchio view it as a salad component, radicchio lends itself to numerous other culinary possibilities. It is delicious roasted, grilled, braised, sautéed, stir fried, or fried. Raise the bar even higher by combining it with pasta, baking it inside a pizza crust or strudel pastry, or cooking it in a risotto until it manifests into a creamy, melting consistency.

Grow these leafy vegetables like lettuce in spring or fall. Some varieties are better for fall preferring the cooler nights. With fall crops the flavor mellows with the onset of cold weather. Direct sow the tiny seeds in a sunny location planting them in rich, well dug soil ¼ inches deep and ½ inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Thin the seedling 10 to 16 inches apart. Although direct sowing is most often recommended, setting out greenhouse transplants works well for me. Radicchio has a shallower root system than its other chicory cousins, preferring more frequent but not deep watering. Infrequent watering will lead to a more bitter tasting leaf. It is an easy vegetable to grow, requiring little care unless you get into some of the complex blanching methods use by commercial growers.

Given its cost at the market and the relative ease of growing it, tuck some of this royal plant into your fall gardens. Radicchio, the queen of Italian vegetables is a gustatory treat and beauty to behold. That’s the short and “bitter” sweet of it!

Seed sources: www.nicholsgardennursery.com, www.teritorialseed.com, www.cooksgarden.com, www.naturalgardening.com, www.rareseeds.com

Garden to Table: More Choy of Asian Greens

At our Columbia county Master Gardeners’ Spring Fair I had to opportunity to meet once again Sue Berg of New Dimension Seeds. We had a delightful albeit short conversation about Asian vegetables and Chinese cooking. It always excites me to talk with others about food and cooking particularly with such a passionate gardener as Sue. The subject of growing and cooking Asian vegetables is fascinating and although I had some general familiarity and experience with many of these vegetables, the subject has intrigued me more. It became my mission to find out as much about them, their culture and preparation, as I could. The coup de gras would be to continue the conversation with Sue and learn to cook in the manner of her heritage.

As I embarked on the quest, the information being sought was readily available from gleaning through seed catalogues, government publications, gardening books and of course, the Internet. One book that I found to be particularly useful is Oriental Vegetables by Joy Larkcom (Kodansha International, ©1991, ISBN 1-56836-017-7). Alice Waters of Chez Panisse describes it as “Indispensable for the gardening cook.”

Last month’s article focused on the greens from the Brassica family, by far the largest representation of Asian greens. There are yet some more, a group of miscellaneous plants that are well worth mentioning.

Edible Chrysanthemum (Chop Suey Green, Garland Chrysanthemum, Shungika, Tung Ho) – Chrysanthemum coronarium
An annual leafy plant growing very well in mild or slightly cold climates; best suited for early spring or autumn cultivation as it will go quickly bolt in warm summer conditions. Normally raised from seed but it can be propagated from soft cuttings taken in spring from over wintered plants and prefers fertile, moisture retentive soil

Uses: leaves and young stems are steamed, stir fried or used in soups; young leaves are good raw in salad; flower petals may be added to salads or soups

Mitsuba (Japanese green, Japanese wild parsley) – Cryptotaena japonica
With parsley like leaves on long slender, white stalks this plant grows vigorously in mild climates where is can be grown year round. Sow spring or early fall in very rich, moisture retentive soil. By nature it is a marsh plant and requires a lot of water. Blanch the stems by earthing up; strong celery flavor.

Uses: young seedlings used raw in salads; leaves and stems used in fish soups, Sukiyaki, and other Japanese dishes


Edible Amaranth (Yin Tsai, Chinese Spinach) - Amaranthus gangeticus
The Amaranth family is a large group of plants found in many areas of the world. Since ancient times the seeds and leaves of Amaranth have been used as food by man. This is a fast growing, leafy plant that is grown as a cut and come again. The seeds germinate at temperatures above 65° F under dark conditions. Prefers light, sandy, fertile, well drained soil amaranths like full sun but may benefit from light shade in hot summers.

Uses: Young leaves and stems may be cooked like spinach or other tender greens – steamed, stir fried or in soups

Water Spinach (Ong Choy, Rau maong, water convolvulus) - Ipomea aquatica
A semi aquatic tropical plant from the same family as morning glory and sweet potato has long hollow stems and lanceolate leaves. It has been introduces to the U.S. where its growth rate has caused it to become an environmental problem (especially in Florida and Texas). It has been officially designated as “noxious weed” by the USDA. Start the plant from seed and then transplant into a fertile, soil filled pool that may be flooded with water. Water spinach likes warm weather responding well to long day lengths but will not grow under low light conditions.

Uses: A common ingredient used in Southeast Asian and Chinese dishes being most often stir fried or used in soups

Malabar Spinach (Saan Choy) – Basella rubra var alba
This tender perennial vine grown as an annual has soft stems and thick succulent heart shaped leaves with a mild flavor and mucilaginous texture. It is very heat tolerant so makes a good choice for summer growing. Best grown from transplants, soak seeds for 24 hours then sow them into seed cells with soil temperature at 65 to 70° F. Transplant when 4 to 8 inches high into warm soil providing support in the form of canes or trellis by the time they reach 10 inches. Harvest side shoots leaving two basal leaves on the stem, picking fairly hard to encourage development of new leaves.

Uses: May be used to thicken soup or stir fried with garlic and chili; needs very little cooking or it will become slimy

Watercress – Nasturtium officinale
Watercress is as well known in Asian cultures as it is in the west. It is a semi aquatic plant found at lower elevations in moving water, irrigation ditches, seasonally flooded areas or springs. It has creeping stems and thick roots at the nodes and is generally grown for its pungent leaves and young stems. If you are interested in the cultivation of watercress (not enough space here), visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MV151

Uses: raw in salads or sandwiches, cooked in soups, stir fries, or braised

Chinese Chives (Nira, Chinese leek, garlic chives, Gau tsoi) – Allium tuberosum
Is it a green or an herb or both? This plant is familiar to many a westerner. It is easy to grow from seed, transplants or divisions, tolerates a wide range of soils but prefers soil that is light and rich in organic matter. This very adaptable plant tolerates both extremely cold and extremely hot temperature. The leaves are often blanched in Asian culture where they are prized as a delicacy.

Uses: Leaves, flower stems, flower buds and flowers may all be used cooked, raw or pickled. It is good with egg dishes, in soups or stir fries. The leaves may be bundled together, dipped in batter and deep fried. The leaves, especially the blanched ones make a delicate filling for steamed or pan fried dumplings.

Whatever Asian greens you choose to grow be a little daring and adventurous. Bring the Choy of Asian greens into your gardens and kitchens.

Seed sources:

www.territorialseed.com

www.evergreenseed.com

www.newdimensionseed.com

www.kitazawaseed.com

AN ARTICHOKE IS A BEAUTY TO BEHOLD

Talk to a gardener about thistles and you are liable to get numerous comments filled with colorful expletives. The globe artichoke, however, stands apart from its noxious relatives commanding a revered presence in our vegetable garden drawing comments from many a visitor to our garden. It is a beautiful plant, tall and majestic, with silvery green toothed leaves. The globe artichoke bears its flower buds on long, thick stems resembling a royal scepter. If allowed to flower it produces a stunning purple thistle that can be dried and used in arrangements. Moreover, the bees adore it.

Originating in southern Europe, globe artichokes were mentioned in Greek and Roman literature as far back as 79AD. First cultivated by North African Moors near Granada, Spain about 800AD, this regal vegetable was later cultivated in Sicily by the Saracen Moors around the middle of the 9th century and then in Naples around the middle of the 15th century. Catherine de’Medici is credited for bringing the artichoke to France when she married King Henri II. The Dutch introduced it to England and could be found growing in the garden of King Henri VIII in Newhall in 1530. The artichoke, however, was not well received by the English. It was brought to California by the Spanish around 1600 and then to Louisiana by the French where it still plays an important role in Creole cuisine.

The Cynara scolymus is a perennial in the thistle group of the sun flower family (Asteraceae). The word artichoke originated from the Arabic ardi shauki (ground thorn) through the north Italian word articiocco. The edible vegetable portion is the immature flower bud that consists of a fleshy lower portion of involucral bracts (bracts that appear in a whorl) and the base or heart. The mass of immature flowers in the center of the bud are called the choke. Buds appear on new shoots and bud size is determined by the height of the stalk and bud position on stalk. The largest buds are at the top of the stalk, the mediums grow from side shoots and the babies at the juncture of the leaf to stem.

Commercial production of the globe artichoke is concentrated in Mediterranean countries, particularly Spain, France and Italy. 100% of the artichokes commercially grown in the United States are produced in California. 80% are grown in Monterey County where Castroville proclaims to be “The Artichoke Capital of the World!” Artichokes did not become widely used or grown in California until the 1920’s. The Green Globe is the only cultivar commercially grown.

Some of the resources that I researched stated that globe artichokes could not be grown in our area and some stated they could be grown in USDA climate zones 7 and above (which includes us). All I know is that I have been growing them in my Warren vegetable garden for three years now. Green Globe and Imperial Star are the most recommended cultivars, but I have had good luck with Violetto, a purple Italian heirloom.

The peak season is in the spring with continued harvest through the summer and into fall.

Keep an eye out for aphids, snails, slugs and earwigs and take appropriate action if necessary.

Artichokes can be cultivated either as perennials or annuals and appreciate conditions for rapid growth. For perennial planting, plant root divisions or potted transplants in rich, loose soil enriched with organic amendments and composted manure 4 to 5 feet apart. Plant divisions in fall or early spring in full sun, keeping plants watered during dry spells. After the first harvest, you may cut the plants to 6 inches from the ground to try for a second harvest. At the end of the season, cut the plants to 8 to 10 inches above the ground, dress with compost or well rotted manure, and cover them well with a mulch of straw or leaves. In early April, uncover the plants and dress again with compost or manure. Plants should be divided every four or five years.

Artichokes may also be grown as a transplanted annual crop. Annual cropping makes growing artichokes feasible in gardens with limited space since it does not need a long term space allocation. Start indoors in late January or early February. Plant the seed in seed starting mix, ¼ inch deep, sowing heavily as artichoke seed only has about a 70% germination rate. Maintain a soil temperature of 50 - 75° F. Germination should occur in 10 to 20 days. Rogue out all small or albino plants. Transplant after danger of frost but at a time when the seedlings can receive 10 to 12 days at 50° F. This helps to induce earlier budding. Follow the guidelines for planting perennial artichokes, but space plants 24 inches apart. Imperial Star is the cultivar most recommended for annual planting.

Next to the first peas and tender young asparagus of spring, I look forward to the first harvest of artichokes with great anticipation. Choose globes that are dark green, heavy for their size and have tight bracts. Don’t select buds that are dry looking or turning brown. If the bracts are too open then the artichokes will more than likely be tough. Don’t throw them away however – use them to make a delicious soup. Cut the stem 2 to 3 inches from the base as this portion is usually tender.

Artichokes can be prepared in numerous ways such as boiling, steaming, frying, sautéing or baking. The first step is to pull away the outer layer of leaves and cut off about the top third of the bud. Rub any cut surfaces immediately with the cut side of a lemon as artichokes oxidize and turn brown quickly. Place them into a water and lemon juice mixture.

I prefer to steam artichokes with garlic, some herbs, lemon and a little olive oil and serve them simply with melted butter, vinaigrette dressing or good mayonnaise. Seafood Stuffed Artichokes and Oysters and Artichokes are specialties I learned to make when living in Louisiana and are especially delicious. Baby artichokes are very tender and require removing fewer of the outside bracts. The choke is usually immature enough that it doesn’t need to be removed. After a preliminary cooking they can be marinated, used in salads, pasta dishes or gratins. Try topping a pizza with artichoke hearts, goat cheese and sun dried tomatoes – YUM! The globe artichoke is a beauty to behold – and to eat!

Saving Seed - A Gift That Keeps on Giving

As we enter the time of year, giving and good will is ever present in our thoughts. As master gardeners we share a love of plants and of good tilled earth. We are stewards of the land committed to ecologically sound conservation through managing soil, water, insect and plant resources. We strive to act in a manner that does not pollute the water or destroy pollinators, beneficial insects or soil microorganisms that provide essential ecosystem services. While being stewards of these precious resources we seek to leave a small unobtrusive footprint behind. This, is it not, a gift we give to our families, to our community and to our precious Terra Madre.

As stewards it is also vital that we recognize the importance of crop genetic diversity. Nearly two thirds of the distinctive seeds and breeds that fed America have vanished. Sixty three percent of native, American food crop varieties have disappeared from cultivation since European arrival on this continent. These foods that are being lost are the results of thousands of years of adaptation and selection in diverse ecological niches around the world. The loss of the diversity of our world’s food crops is eroding at an accelerating and unprecedented rate. As gardeners we must comprehend the true scope of our garden heritage, how much is in immediate danger of being lost forever, and how we can preserve this heritage for future generations by saving seed and heirloom plant varieties.

Each plant variety is genetically unique, developing resistances to the diseases and pests with which it evolved. These old varieties are used by modern plant breeders to breed resistance into modern crops that are incessantly being attacked by precipitously evolving disease or pests. Without this infusion of genetic diversity food production is at risk from infestations and epidemics.

Does anyone remember the Marshall strawberry for which Oregon was once so well known? This sweet red berry was once the backbone of the northwestern berry industry. The only hint of this remarkable strawberry exists at the USDA’s Germplasm Repository in Corvallis in the form of a single clone.

Just what is the impact of this genetic erosion? World renowned plant collector, the late Jack Harlan, author of Crops and Man while Professor of Plant Genetics at University of Illinois at Urbana, has written, “These resources stand between us and catastrophic starvation on a scale we cannot imagine. In a very real sense, the future of the human race rides on these materials. The line between abundance and disaster is becoming thinner and thinner, and the public is unaware and unconcerned. Must we wait for disaster to be real before we are heard? Will people listen only after it is too late?”

Once upon a time see saving was a necessity. Farmers and gardeners selected the best seeds from harvest so there would be seed for planting in subsequent years. As they do not exist in the wild, domesticated crops depend on an intimate relationship with humans.
Over the eons, traditional farmers have saved seed from plants that exhibited a diversity of favorable traits to them or their communities such as maturing before frost, sweeter taste, and resistance to specific insects or diseases.

The rise of commercially available seed resulted in a trend away from seed saving. Farmers and gardeners purchase new seeds every year resulting in a loss of many seed varieties. Due to a growing concern regarding the loss of many varieties as commercially available seeds a grass roots movement began dedicated to seed saving. In 1975 Kent and Diane Whealy founded the Seed Savers Exchange dedicate to the continuation and preservation of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties and is the single most effective food crop conservation non-profit in history. The SSE yearbook annually offers members 12,000 varieties of heirloom fruits and vegetables. As a member and contributor to the Seed Savers Exchange, I heartily recommend that every gardener become a member. There is also a flower and herb exchange as well for those of you not into food gardens.

Do I practice what I preach? Well I’m not just preaching to the choir. So far I have managed to save and perpetuate two varieties of garlic, two shallots, five snap beans, one dry bean, three lettuces, one melon, one winter squash, one chile pepper, one Jerusalem artichoke, three tomatoes and 14 apples. Saving seed (or corms, or tubers, or cuttings) is fun and rewarding as well as not being particularly difficult in most cases once you understand the parameters. The most comprehensive and easily understandable book that I have found on the subject is Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth available through Seed Savers Exchange. In some cases it is a matter of trial and error to determine what varieties you like and what works for you. The school of hard knocks is sometimes the best teacher.

Local, regional, national and global food security depends on plant diversity as well as our stewardship. Through our ongoing stewardship and dedication we can preserve and pass on these precious gifts for future generations. This then is truly a gift that keeps on giving.


Sources:

Seed Savers Exchange; http://www.seedsaversexchange.org/
Renewing America’s Food Traditions (Gary Paul Nabhan and Ashley Road Center for Sustainable Environments at Northern Arizona University on behalf of the RAFT Coalition)
Slow Food USA: http://www.slowfoodusa.org/
Native Seed/Search: http://www.nativeseeds.org/

Regarding Green Salads

Green salads are made from a variety of uncooked, fresh greens usually referred to as salad greens and usually accompanied by a dressing. The combination of greens is a matter of personal taste and seasonal availability. Emphasis should be placed on fresh, crisp, tender, young, clean and well washed greens. Wilted and browned outside leaves should be discarded.

When washing the greens great care should be taken as many types bruise very easily. Fill up a sink with cold water and carefully place the greens into the sink. Agitate them carefully and then allow them to stand in the water for a few moments to allow the sand and dirt to sink to the bottom. Scoop up the greens and place them in a colander in another sink to drain. Drain the sink and rinse it out well. Repeat this procedure on or two more times until no more sand and dirt is evident.

Shake off excess moisture. It is best to dry the greens carefully either in a towel or with the use of a salad spinner before using them or storing them. Do not overload the spinner or the greens will be too heavy and bruise easily. Wrap the greens carefully in paper towel, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate if not using right away. If you just have to use the packaged supermarket salad, wash it even though the label says that it has always been washed. If you are like me, however, once you have tasted greens fresh from the garden you will become spoiled for nothing will ever taste quite as good.

Green salads can be served in numerous combinations either with cooked or uncooked ingredients. What ever the choice freshness and the use of clean dry greens is a key to enjoying a well made green salad. Keep balance in mind when selecting combinations.

The salad bowl is not a compost heap. Just because it exists does not mean that every salad ingredient need be used in one salad. Care should be taken not to allow any certain ingredient to become overly pious but all elements should successfully compliment one another that will please both the eyes and the palate.

I need to say a word or two about dressing even though this is not the focus of this article. One of the reasons that the greens need to be dry is so that the dressing adheres to it and does not become watered down from excess moisture clinging to the greens. A skillfully flavored salad dressing is essential to success in salad preparation. It should be appropriate in flavor, texture and color to a particular salad. Herbs, flavorings, oils and vinegars may be blended in intricate amounts, but should always heighten the flavor and crispness of the greens or other salad ingredients, not drown them. The dressing of the greens should be done just prior to serving.

Most salads are served cold and thus should be served on a chilled plate or salad bowl. For presentation sake try artfully arranging the salad with any garnishes being used rather than just dumping it into a bowl. A fresh green salad is a beautiful thing to behold.

Note: Regarding Greens to Be Cooked

Greens that are being cooked should follow the same freshness and washing regimen as greens being served raw.