Garden To Table: Of Cabbages and Kings

"The time has come,' the Walrus said, "To talk of many things:Of shoes -- and ships -- and sealing wax -- Of cabbages -- and kings --And why the sea is boiling hot -- And whether pigs have wings.'

Lewis Carroll

The deep snow from our early winter storm had finally melted away so I decided to take a walk through the vegetable garden to see what had survived the tempest. Nothing it appeared; everything had turned to slime! A second look proved more fruitful – a few collards, some upland cress and even a few leaves of lettuce and spinach. And then I saw them – cabbages, great heads of cabbages looming in the garden like Victor Hugo’s Quasimodo hanging from the bell tower of the great Notre Dame cathedral. If artichokes and radicchio reign as supreme monarchs of the vegetable patch then cabbages must surely be of stalwart peasant stock – sometimes praised, sometimes maligned.

Cabbage was known to and praised by ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans for its medicinal properties (although this probably wasn’t the head cabbage we know today). European aristocracy, however, from the Middle Ages to the 18th century turned up their noses at the mere mention of this lowly vegetable. In fact, the nobles of that time disdained all vegetables, leafy ones in particular, believing them to be responsible for ill health. Since many of the common vegetables of that day – cabbage, beans, onions and garlic – were attributed to the ability to produce wind, they were of the attitude that vegetables might be acceptable for commoners but certainly not for those in aristocratic circles. Despite being snubbed by blue bloods, cabbage withstood the disparagement and remained a reliable staple of the poor playing a central role in their diets. Cabbage was devoured with great relish, especially during the cold winter months, as it was one of the few fresh staples available when the ground produced little else.

Historians disagree as to the origin of the head cabbage we know today but do agree that heads of cabbage started forming about the 1st century BCE. Some believe it to have originated in the Mediterranean cultivated from the wild mustard plant (wild cabbage, sea cabbage). Others say its evolution began in northern Europe selected from a wild perennial cabbage that still grows along the coast of England today. Some speculate that the cabbage of ancient references was actually a kale similar to the Nero di Toscano (black palm, dinosaur kale) of today. Nevertheless, many varieties of heading cabbage were well known and widely cultivated in both northern and southern Europe by the 13th century taking a place of preference over its cousin kale.

The cabbage family (Brassica oleracea) sports a large family tree of cruciferous vegetables including kale, broccoli, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Each has its own family branch or Group, heading cabbages belonging to the Capitata Group. Heading cabbages come in various shades of green as well as red and purple. Head shapes range from standard round to flattened to pointed. Most have smooth leaves but Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.

Being a hardy cool-season crop, cabbage does best under uniform cool moist conditions and grows especially well in fertile soil. They’re easy to grow and in our moderate climate a selection of cabbages is harvestable nearly year round. Just choose varieties that are best suited to each growing season from early spring through winter. Fertility requirements are relatively high and the timing of fertilizer application depends largely as to the time of year that cabbages are planted.

Cabbage can be direct sown or as a transplant. I have more success with transplants, starting the seeds in the greenhouse 6 to 8 weeks prior to transplanting. For the first spring planting I count back 8 to 10 weeks from the last projected frost, seeding the first starts in mid February. Territorial Seed recommends sowing early maturing varieties from March through June and later autumn-maturing varieties from late May to early June, which allows heads to form during the relative cool of fall. When seedlings are 6-8 weeks old with 5-6 true leaves they are ready to harden off and transplant.

Growing cabbage is not without its headaches especially when it comes to those nasty flea beetles and cabbage loopers. A sacrifice patch of arugula or turnips can divert the attention of the flea beetles but one of the best all around prevention methods is the use of floating row cover (I should be their poster boy). When all else fails, I resort to using rotenone/pyrethrum for flea beetles and Bt for loopers, following package directions of course. Harvest early cabbage promptly as they mature fast and burst quickly. Those later types that mature in late summer or autumn when growth rates are slow will often hold for several months. Over-mature heads are subject to splitting, especially if they are exposed to moisture fluctuations. One trick to help hold mature cabbage in the field is to give it a slight twist to sever some of the roots. The best rules of thumb though are to pick it when it’s ready and to choose an appropriate cultivar for the season in which it is being grown. Cut the heads from the stems and include 2 or 3 wrapper leaves to protect against bruising.

From a nutritional standpoint, cabbage is jam packed with vitamin C, fiber, iron, calcium and potassium as well as several B vitamins. It also contains significant amounts of glutamines, an amino acid, which has inflammatory properties. In European folk medicine, cabbage leaves are used to treat acute inflammations. Keep in mind when cooking cabbage, the longer it is cooked the lower the nutritional value.

Cabbage may still be considered a plebian vegetable in some circles today but its culinary versatility goes well beyond the over cooked boiled cabbage that so many have reckoned with. A savory cabbage soup will ward off the chill of the most bone chilling day. Red cabbage tossed with hot bacon dressing just until slightly wilted, garnished with bleu cheese and candied walnuts will evoke awes from even the most ardent of food snobs. Stir fry it lightly lacing it with Szechwan pepper and a splash of rice vinegar. Bake it with pork chops in cream lightly perfumed with fresh thyme and bay leaf. As a filling for tender dumplings, golden yeasty breads, or flaky strudel, cabbage acquires a new dimension. Transformed in any of these manners, the once lowly cabbage becomes a dish fit for a king. Admittedly, some of you may be thinking: “When pigs fly!”

From Garden to Table/ Odiferous Alliums: An Ode to the Stinking Rose

“Banish (the onion) from the kitchen and the pleasure flies with it. Its presence lends color and enchantment to the most modest dish; its absence reduces the rarest delicacy to hopeless insipidity, and dinner to despair.”

Elizabeth Robbins Pennell, American columnist


Take away my onions, garlic, leeks or shallots and I would be hard pressed to cook. One or more of these odiferous alliums form the basis of many a savory dish. Being a staple food, edible Alliums are fundamental to cooking. Aside from forming the flavor basis for everything from soups to stews, sauces, stuffings, casseroles and savory pies, these aromatic edibles are used in numerous other preparations either alone or in tandem with other ingredients. They can be roasted, baked, fried, sautéed, grilled, braised, stewed, pickled, marinated or simply used in a raw state. When you think about the myriad of cooking applications it is mind boggling.

Onions, green onions, shallots, garlic and leeks have been used as a food for millennia dating back to 5000 BC. There is, however, no conclusive opinion that pinpoints an exact location and time of birth. Ancient Egyptians worshiped them; Greek and Roman athletes revered them; people in the Middle Ages paid rent with them. Modern nutritionists tout so many health benefits of consuming them that it reads like a medical journal – sulfur compounds, chromium, lowers total cholesterol and triglycerides, antioxidants, vitamins B-6 and C, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial.

Odiferous Allium thy taste is sweet
When on my plate commence to eat
But flooding tears roll down my cheek,
While mincing thee provoke the air
Doest sting my eyes and make me weep.

Many plants of the genus Allium are known by the common name onion but this usually refers to Allium cepa, the globe onion, bulb onion, garden onion or shallot. As anyone who has chopped onions knows, they can bring tears to your eyes. As onions are cut, cells are broken causing a complex chemical reaction with sulfur based acids present in the onion. These acids turn volatile reaching the nerve endings of the eye making them sting. Tear glands produce tears to flush out the irritant. Using a sharp knife helps to minimize this reaction as does rinsing the onion in cold water after peeling. The best advice is just to do the task and get it over with.

Onions regulate stages of growth by the duration of the light/dark cycle at the particular time of year they are growing, thus they are categorized as long day, short day and day neutral. The amount of growth and development prior to bulbing will determine the bulb size. Long day varieties grow north of the Kansas/Oklahoma border so they are the best choice for gardeners in our local. Plant them as early as possible in spring from seed, sets or transplants to obtain growth prior to the longest day when they begin to bulb. Short day varieties, best suited for the South, need to be planted in the fall to obtain enough growth to make a large bulb earlier in the year when the days are shorter. Day neutral onions can be grown anywhere. Some onion varieties are grown strictly for fresh use (i.e. Walla Walla) and some for storage (i.e. Copra). Some are sweet in flavor and others hot. Onions grown from sets tend to prematurely bolt. Seed grown onions, whether direct seeded or transplants, are generally good keepers.

But in my garden you shall abide
In place of honor there,
An ode to you majestic lords
And royal ladies fair,
As I shall reap the bounty and harvest you with pride

Onion nomenclature can be quite confusing at times especially when it comes to describing shallots, scallions or green onions. The term shallot is actually used to describe two different Allium species – the French grey shallot, true shallot or grisell (Allium oschanirii) and the shallot or multiplier onion (Allium cepa var. aggregatum). Shallots and multiplier onions form a cluster of underground bulbs from each single bulb planted, much like garlic. To add to our bewilderment, the term shallot is confused with scallion. In some countries green onions are shallots and shallots are referred to by alternative names such as eschallot.

The Welsh onion (Allium fistulosum) does not develop bulbs and possess hollow leaves and scapes. In the vernacular these are Japanese bunching onions, green onions, spring onions and scallions (the latter three terms are sometimes applied to immature bulbing onions as well). Welsh doesn’t mean it comes from Wales but preserves the meaning of the Old English word meaning foreign, the species having originated in Asia.

The Tree Onion is a garden oddity being a cultivar-cross of Allium cepa and Allium fistulosum. Also called Top onion, Topset onion, Walking onion or Egyptian onion, this is an onion with a bunch of bulblets where a normal onion would have flowers. They can sprout and grow while still on the stalk, bending down under the weight giving rise to the name walking onion.

Garlic (Allium sativum) needs no introduction. It comes in two types: Softneck (subsp. sativum) and Hardneck (subsp. ophioscorodon). Softneck garlic produces 6-18 cloves in several layers around a soft central stem, has the best storage qualities and is great for braiding. Hardneck garlic typically produces 5-9 cloves per head which grow in a single circle around a central woody stem attempting to produce a flower stalk. The range and quality of flavor they exhibit is outstanding but hardneck types have a shorter storage life than softneck types.

Elephant garlic (Allium porrum var. ampeloprasum) does need an introduction or at least an explanation. Not garlic at all it is related to garden leeks. It takes two years to get cloves, the first year yielding only a single clove. This plant has a tall, solid, flowering stalk and broad flat leaves much like those of a leek with a flavor milder than garlic. If left alone, it will spread into a clump with many flowering heads making a lovely ornamental.

Leeks (Allium porrum) produce a long cylinder of bundled leaf sheaths which are blanched by hilling. The edible portion of the leek is the white base and light green stalk. Summer leeks are harvested young and in the season when planted. Over-wintering leeks are planted to harvest in the winter or the following spring. Leeks can be bunched and harvested early when they are about the size of a pencil or can be thinned and allowed to grow to a much larger mature size.

With some careful planning, one or more members of the Allium family can be grown in our gardens year round. Techniques and parameters for growing onions and other Alliums can be found in any good vegetable gardening book worth the paper it’s written on and the information available is encyclopedic. They all require well-dug, loose soil amended with lots of organic material, the same mantra we use for growing all of our vegetables. For a quick reference on growing requirements, check out the catalogue from Territorial Seed as well as the OSU extension web site (document EC 1231).

Oh leeks so sweet and onions strong, oh garlic’s pungent air;
Deprive me of the stinking rose
This life I should despair.

Carl Sandburg, the great American poet wrote: “Life is like an onion. You peel it off one layer at a time; and sometimes you weep.”

Take away my onions, garlic, leeks or shallots – that’s enough to make me cry!

From Garden to Table: Radicchio - Queen of Italian Vegetables

Donning regal robes of maroon and cream, radicchio reigns supreme among traditional Italian vegetables. Beloved by chef and gourmand alike, this often misunderstood red chicory endures a love or hate relationship among those that try it because of its slightly bitter nature.

Cultivated since the fifteenth century in the Veneto region of Italy, the deep red radicchio of today was developed by Belgian agronomist Franco Van den Borre. Van den Borre used a technique imbianchimento (whitening) or pre-forcing to create the dark red with white veined leaves. Plants are removed from the ground and placed in water or sand in a cool dark cellar. The lack of light inhibits chlorophyll production causing the plants to lose their green color. For those of us that have neither root cellar nor desire to go to such lengths, a paper bag or pot turned over each head for a while will produce somewhat similar results.

The Cichorium intybus – relatives of endives and escarole – commands a high price in produce markets and comes in the guise of several types and cultivars. Varieties of radicchio are named after the Italian regions where they originated.

Radicchio di Chioggia with its ball shaped head is the most commonly found type in supermarkets and include such cultivars as Palla Rossa, Rouge de Verone and Leonardo.

Radicchio di Treviso is elongated like a Belgian endive and has a distinctive tangy taste. Hard to find in US markets, it is highly prized in Italy as a favored vegetable to grill.

Radicchio di Castelfranco has a lovely yellowish cream leaf with red speckles. This beautiful and tender lettuce like ball unfolds like a rose making it the most regal of radicchios.

Radicchio di Puntarelle sometimes known as Italian dandelion is described by Nichols Garden Nursery as a dandelion on steroids. Puntarelle looks like an asparagus grown out of a fennel bulb covered by dandelion leaves. This rarity has slightly bitter undertones with crisp tender stems working well in stir fries or salads.

Radicchio di Tardiva comes from the more uncommon di Treviso. After first frost, a complex growing-forcing method is employed so the plant grows into a uniquely shaped strong plant. Tardiva is more flavorful than the milder Treviso with strong bitter accents and a crisp consistency. Sauté or dress with hot vinaigrette.

Although many folks that are familiar with radicchio view it as a salad component, radicchio lends itself to numerous other culinary possibilities. It is delicious roasted, grilled, braised, sautéed, stir fried, or fried. Raise the bar even higher by combining it with pasta, baking it inside a pizza crust or strudel pastry, or cooking it in a risotto until it manifests into a creamy, melting consistency.

Grow these leafy vegetables like lettuce in spring or fall. Some varieties are better for fall preferring the cooler nights. With fall crops the flavor mellows with the onset of cold weather. Direct sow the tiny seeds in a sunny location planting them in rich, well dug soil ¼ inches deep and ½ inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Thin the seedling 10 to 16 inches apart. Although direct sowing is most often recommended, setting out greenhouse transplants works well for me. Radicchio has a shallower root system than its other chicory cousins, preferring more frequent but not deep watering. Infrequent watering will lead to a more bitter tasting leaf. It is an easy vegetable to grow, requiring little care unless you get into some of the complex blanching methods use by commercial growers.

Given its cost at the market and the relative ease of growing it, tuck some of this royal plant into your fall gardens. Radicchio, the queen of Italian vegetables is a gustatory treat and beauty to behold. That’s the short and “bitter” sweet of it!

Seed sources: www.nicholsgardennursery.com, www.teritorialseed.com, www.cooksgarden.com, www.naturalgardening.com, www.rareseeds.com

Garden to Table: More Choy of Asian Greens

At our Columbia county Master Gardeners’ Spring Fair I had to opportunity to meet once again Sue Berg of New Dimension Seeds. We had a delightful albeit short conversation about Asian vegetables and Chinese cooking. It always excites me to talk with others about food and cooking particularly with such a passionate gardener as Sue. The subject of growing and cooking Asian vegetables is fascinating and although I had some general familiarity and experience with many of these vegetables, the subject has intrigued me more. It became my mission to find out as much about them, their culture and preparation, as I could. The coup de gras would be to continue the conversation with Sue and learn to cook in the manner of her heritage.

As I embarked on the quest, the information being sought was readily available from gleaning through seed catalogues, government publications, gardening books and of course, the Internet. One book that I found to be particularly useful is Oriental Vegetables by Joy Larkcom (Kodansha International, ©1991, ISBN 1-56836-017-7). Alice Waters of Chez Panisse describes it as “Indispensable for the gardening cook.”

Last month’s article focused on the greens from the Brassica family, by far the largest representation of Asian greens. There are yet some more, a group of miscellaneous plants that are well worth mentioning.

Edible Chrysanthemum (Chop Suey Green, Garland Chrysanthemum, Shungika, Tung Ho) – Chrysanthemum coronarium
An annual leafy plant growing very well in mild or slightly cold climates; best suited for early spring or autumn cultivation as it will go quickly bolt in warm summer conditions. Normally raised from seed but it can be propagated from soft cuttings taken in spring from over wintered plants and prefers fertile, moisture retentive soil

Uses: leaves and young stems are steamed, stir fried or used in soups; young leaves are good raw in salad; flower petals may be added to salads or soups

Mitsuba (Japanese green, Japanese wild parsley) – Cryptotaena japonica
With parsley like leaves on long slender, white stalks this plant grows vigorously in mild climates where is can be grown year round. Sow spring or early fall in very rich, moisture retentive soil. By nature it is a marsh plant and requires a lot of water. Blanch the stems by earthing up; strong celery flavor.

Uses: young seedlings used raw in salads; leaves and stems used in fish soups, Sukiyaki, and other Japanese dishes


Edible Amaranth (Yin Tsai, Chinese Spinach) - Amaranthus gangeticus
The Amaranth family is a large group of plants found in many areas of the world. Since ancient times the seeds and leaves of Amaranth have been used as food by man. This is a fast growing, leafy plant that is grown as a cut and come again. The seeds germinate at temperatures above 65° F under dark conditions. Prefers light, sandy, fertile, well drained soil amaranths like full sun but may benefit from light shade in hot summers.

Uses: Young leaves and stems may be cooked like spinach or other tender greens – steamed, stir fried or in soups

Water Spinach (Ong Choy, Rau maong, water convolvulus) - Ipomea aquatica
A semi aquatic tropical plant from the same family as morning glory and sweet potato has long hollow stems and lanceolate leaves. It has been introduces to the U.S. where its growth rate has caused it to become an environmental problem (especially in Florida and Texas). It has been officially designated as “noxious weed” by the USDA. Start the plant from seed and then transplant into a fertile, soil filled pool that may be flooded with water. Water spinach likes warm weather responding well to long day lengths but will not grow under low light conditions.

Uses: A common ingredient used in Southeast Asian and Chinese dishes being most often stir fried or used in soups

Malabar Spinach (Saan Choy) – Basella rubra var alba
This tender perennial vine grown as an annual has soft stems and thick succulent heart shaped leaves with a mild flavor and mucilaginous texture. It is very heat tolerant so makes a good choice for summer growing. Best grown from transplants, soak seeds for 24 hours then sow them into seed cells with soil temperature at 65 to 70° F. Transplant when 4 to 8 inches high into warm soil providing support in the form of canes or trellis by the time they reach 10 inches. Harvest side shoots leaving two basal leaves on the stem, picking fairly hard to encourage development of new leaves.

Uses: May be used to thicken soup or stir fried with garlic and chili; needs very little cooking or it will become slimy

Watercress – Nasturtium officinale
Watercress is as well known in Asian cultures as it is in the west. It is a semi aquatic plant found at lower elevations in moving water, irrigation ditches, seasonally flooded areas or springs. It has creeping stems and thick roots at the nodes and is generally grown for its pungent leaves and young stems. If you are interested in the cultivation of watercress (not enough space here), visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MV151

Uses: raw in salads or sandwiches, cooked in soups, stir fries, or braised

Chinese Chives (Nira, Chinese leek, garlic chives, Gau tsoi) – Allium tuberosum
Is it a green or an herb or both? This plant is familiar to many a westerner. It is easy to grow from seed, transplants or divisions, tolerates a wide range of soils but prefers soil that is light and rich in organic matter. This very adaptable plant tolerates both extremely cold and extremely hot temperature. The leaves are often blanched in Asian culture where they are prized as a delicacy.

Uses: Leaves, flower stems, flower buds and flowers may all be used cooked, raw or pickled. It is good with egg dishes, in soups or stir fries. The leaves may be bundled together, dipped in batter and deep fried. The leaves, especially the blanched ones make a delicate filling for steamed or pan fried dumplings.

Whatever Asian greens you choose to grow be a little daring and adventurous. Bring the Choy of Asian greens into your gardens and kitchens.

Seed sources:

www.territorialseed.com

www.evergreenseed.com

www.newdimensionseed.com

www.kitazawaseed.com

AN ARTICHOKE IS A BEAUTY TO BEHOLD

Talk to a gardener about thistles and you are liable to get numerous comments filled with colorful expletives. The globe artichoke, however, stands apart from its noxious relatives commanding a revered presence in our vegetable garden drawing comments from many a visitor to our garden. It is a beautiful plant, tall and majestic, with silvery green toothed leaves. The globe artichoke bears its flower buds on long, thick stems resembling a royal scepter. If allowed to flower it produces a stunning purple thistle that can be dried and used in arrangements. Moreover, the bees adore it.

Originating in southern Europe, globe artichokes were mentioned in Greek and Roman literature as far back as 79AD. First cultivated by North African Moors near Granada, Spain about 800AD, this regal vegetable was later cultivated in Sicily by the Saracen Moors around the middle of the 9th century and then in Naples around the middle of the 15th century. Catherine de’Medici is credited for bringing the artichoke to France when she married King Henri II. The Dutch introduced it to England and could be found growing in the garden of King Henri VIII in Newhall in 1530. The artichoke, however, was not well received by the English. It was brought to California by the Spanish around 1600 and then to Louisiana by the French where it still plays an important role in Creole cuisine.

The Cynara scolymus is a perennial in the thistle group of the sun flower family (Asteraceae). The word artichoke originated from the Arabic ardi shauki (ground thorn) through the north Italian word articiocco. The edible vegetable portion is the immature flower bud that consists of a fleshy lower portion of involucral bracts (bracts that appear in a whorl) and the base or heart. The mass of immature flowers in the center of the bud are called the choke. Buds appear on new shoots and bud size is determined by the height of the stalk and bud position on stalk. The largest buds are at the top of the stalk, the mediums grow from side shoots and the babies at the juncture of the leaf to stem.

Commercial production of the globe artichoke is concentrated in Mediterranean countries, particularly Spain, France and Italy. 100% of the artichokes commercially grown in the United States are produced in California. 80% are grown in Monterey County where Castroville proclaims to be “The Artichoke Capital of the World!” Artichokes did not become widely used or grown in California until the 1920’s. The Green Globe is the only cultivar commercially grown.

Some of the resources that I researched stated that globe artichokes could not be grown in our area and some stated they could be grown in USDA climate zones 7 and above (which includes us). All I know is that I have been growing them in my Warren vegetable garden for three years now. Green Globe and Imperial Star are the most recommended cultivars, but I have had good luck with Violetto, a purple Italian heirloom.

The peak season is in the spring with continued harvest through the summer and into fall.

Keep an eye out for aphids, snails, slugs and earwigs and take appropriate action if necessary.

Artichokes can be cultivated either as perennials or annuals and appreciate conditions for rapid growth. For perennial planting, plant root divisions or potted transplants in rich, loose soil enriched with organic amendments and composted manure 4 to 5 feet apart. Plant divisions in fall or early spring in full sun, keeping plants watered during dry spells. After the first harvest, you may cut the plants to 6 inches from the ground to try for a second harvest. At the end of the season, cut the plants to 8 to 10 inches above the ground, dress with compost or well rotted manure, and cover them well with a mulch of straw or leaves. In early April, uncover the plants and dress again with compost or manure. Plants should be divided every four or five years.

Artichokes may also be grown as a transplanted annual crop. Annual cropping makes growing artichokes feasible in gardens with limited space since it does not need a long term space allocation. Start indoors in late January or early February. Plant the seed in seed starting mix, ¼ inch deep, sowing heavily as artichoke seed only has about a 70% germination rate. Maintain a soil temperature of 50 - 75° F. Germination should occur in 10 to 20 days. Rogue out all small or albino plants. Transplant after danger of frost but at a time when the seedlings can receive 10 to 12 days at 50° F. This helps to induce earlier budding. Follow the guidelines for planting perennial artichokes, but space plants 24 inches apart. Imperial Star is the cultivar most recommended for annual planting.

Next to the first peas and tender young asparagus of spring, I look forward to the first harvest of artichokes with great anticipation. Choose globes that are dark green, heavy for their size and have tight bracts. Don’t select buds that are dry looking or turning brown. If the bracts are too open then the artichokes will more than likely be tough. Don’t throw them away however – use them to make a delicious soup. Cut the stem 2 to 3 inches from the base as this portion is usually tender.

Artichokes can be prepared in numerous ways such as boiling, steaming, frying, sautéing or baking. The first step is to pull away the outer layer of leaves and cut off about the top third of the bud. Rub any cut surfaces immediately with the cut side of a lemon as artichokes oxidize and turn brown quickly. Place them into a water and lemon juice mixture.

I prefer to steam artichokes with garlic, some herbs, lemon and a little olive oil and serve them simply with melted butter, vinaigrette dressing or good mayonnaise. Seafood Stuffed Artichokes and Oysters and Artichokes are specialties I learned to make when living in Louisiana and are especially delicious. Baby artichokes are very tender and require removing fewer of the outside bracts. The choke is usually immature enough that it doesn’t need to be removed. After a preliminary cooking they can be marinated, used in salads, pasta dishes or gratins. Try topping a pizza with artichoke hearts, goat cheese and sun dried tomatoes – YUM! The globe artichoke is a beauty to behold – and to eat!

Saving Seed - A Gift That Keeps on Giving

As we enter the time of year, giving and good will is ever present in our thoughts. As master gardeners we share a love of plants and of good tilled earth. We are stewards of the land committed to ecologically sound conservation through managing soil, water, insect and plant resources. We strive to act in a manner that does not pollute the water or destroy pollinators, beneficial insects or soil microorganisms that provide essential ecosystem services. While being stewards of these precious resources we seek to leave a small unobtrusive footprint behind. This, is it not, a gift we give to our families, to our community and to our precious Terra Madre.

As stewards it is also vital that we recognize the importance of crop genetic diversity. Nearly two thirds of the distinctive seeds and breeds that fed America have vanished. Sixty three percent of native, American food crop varieties have disappeared from cultivation since European arrival on this continent. These foods that are being lost are the results of thousands of years of adaptation and selection in diverse ecological niches around the world. The loss of the diversity of our world’s food crops is eroding at an accelerating and unprecedented rate. As gardeners we must comprehend the true scope of our garden heritage, how much is in immediate danger of being lost forever, and how we can preserve this heritage for future generations by saving seed and heirloom plant varieties.

Each plant variety is genetically unique, developing resistances to the diseases and pests with which it evolved. These old varieties are used by modern plant breeders to breed resistance into modern crops that are incessantly being attacked by precipitously evolving disease or pests. Without this infusion of genetic diversity food production is at risk from infestations and epidemics.

Does anyone remember the Marshall strawberry for which Oregon was once so well known? This sweet red berry was once the backbone of the northwestern berry industry. The only hint of this remarkable strawberry exists at the USDA’s Germplasm Repository in Corvallis in the form of a single clone.

Just what is the impact of this genetic erosion? World renowned plant collector, the late Jack Harlan, author of Crops and Man while Professor of Plant Genetics at University of Illinois at Urbana, has written, “These resources stand between us and catastrophic starvation on a scale we cannot imagine. In a very real sense, the future of the human race rides on these materials. The line between abundance and disaster is becoming thinner and thinner, and the public is unaware and unconcerned. Must we wait for disaster to be real before we are heard? Will people listen only after it is too late?”

Once upon a time see saving was a necessity. Farmers and gardeners selected the best seeds from harvest so there would be seed for planting in subsequent years. As they do not exist in the wild, domesticated crops depend on an intimate relationship with humans.
Over the eons, traditional farmers have saved seed from plants that exhibited a diversity of favorable traits to them or their communities such as maturing before frost, sweeter taste, and resistance to specific insects or diseases.

The rise of commercially available seed resulted in a trend away from seed saving. Farmers and gardeners purchase new seeds every year resulting in a loss of many seed varieties. Due to a growing concern regarding the loss of many varieties as commercially available seeds a grass roots movement began dedicated to seed saving. In 1975 Kent and Diane Whealy founded the Seed Savers Exchange dedicate to the continuation and preservation of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties and is the single most effective food crop conservation non-profit in history. The SSE yearbook annually offers members 12,000 varieties of heirloom fruits and vegetables. As a member and contributor to the Seed Savers Exchange, I heartily recommend that every gardener become a member. There is also a flower and herb exchange as well for those of you not into food gardens.

Do I practice what I preach? Well I’m not just preaching to the choir. So far I have managed to save and perpetuate two varieties of garlic, two shallots, five snap beans, one dry bean, three lettuces, one melon, one winter squash, one chile pepper, one Jerusalem artichoke, three tomatoes and 14 apples. Saving seed (or corms, or tubers, or cuttings) is fun and rewarding as well as not being particularly difficult in most cases once you understand the parameters. The most comprehensive and easily understandable book that I have found on the subject is Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth available through Seed Savers Exchange. In some cases it is a matter of trial and error to determine what varieties you like and what works for you. The school of hard knocks is sometimes the best teacher.

Local, regional, national and global food security depends on plant diversity as well as our stewardship. Through our ongoing stewardship and dedication we can preserve and pass on these precious gifts for future generations. This then is truly a gift that keeps on giving.


Sources:

Seed Savers Exchange; http://www.seedsaversexchange.org/
Renewing America’s Food Traditions (Gary Paul Nabhan and Ashley Road Center for Sustainable Environments at Northern Arizona University on behalf of the RAFT Coalition)
Slow Food USA: http://www.slowfoodusa.org/
Native Seed/Search: http://www.nativeseeds.org/

GARDEN TO TABLE: THE CHOY OF ASIAN GREENS – THE BRASSICAS

View and download photos of the different varieties of Asian Greens

If you have ever visited an Asian market, it can be a bit unnerving to stroll through the produce aisles and witness the bounty of unusual vegetables, both strange and marvelous for the uninitiated Westerner. Numerous types of Asian greens make up the bulwark of the produce sections. Of these the majority of these leafy greens belong to the beloved workhorses of the vegetable garden – the Brassicas. Global cuisine has now introduced these piquant greens to cooks world wide. Easy to grow, these greens are both delicious and adaptable to a myriad of preparations.

In the western style of cooking young greens may be used raw in a simple salad. Try steaming them lightly and then drizzle with a vinaigrette dressing or simply sauté in good olive oil with garlic and a little hot pepper. Following Asian culinary traditions these greens may be stir fried, used in soups, braised or salt pickled as westerners would prepare cabbage for sauerkraut. (An interesting note here is that the technique of salt pickling cabbage was introduced to Eastern Europe with the invasion of the Mongol Hordes. This however is another story).

Culture
Asian Brassicas are relatively easy crops to grow if planted in early spring or late summer. Since the majority of them prefer cooler weather, mid summer plantings may lead to premature bolting. This is particularly true of some Chinese cabbages which respond well to decreasing temperatures and day length making this a good crop for fall.

These greens may either be sown directly into a fertile, well cultivated, smooth seedbed or started as transplants. Although some varieties have proven to be heat resistant (refer to your seed sources), most of these crops grow best in a cool environment in moist, airy soil that provides high nutrient levels. Look for information on the specific greens that you are growing.

Flea beetles and cucumber beetles tend to be the main insect pests. The use of floating row covers provides a good physical barrier from insects. Slugs can play havoc on these lovely greens especially in the cool wet seasons of spring and fall. For any prevention or pesticide recommendations confer with your county extension office. Follow general guidelines for garden sanitation and crop rotation as best practice for reducing the chance of disease.

To direct sow plant the seed _ to _ inches deep planting seed about every inch. The optimum soil temperature is 40° to 75° F. Keep the bed uniformly moist. Thin the plants to a distance of 6 to 12 inches, 12 to 18 inches for Chinese cabbage. Spring crops may be sown as soon as danger of frost has passed and fall crops may be sown from July to mid-August.

For transplants start the plants 4 to 5 weeks after the danger of frost for spring planting and early June to mid July for fall crops. Set out transplants when there are 4 to 5 true leaves to a depth of the first pair of leaves following the same spacing guidelines as with direct sowing.

Here’s a quick description of the different types of Asian Brassicas:

Chinese cabbage Brassica rapa, Pekinensis Group

• Pei Tsai: small loose leaf type; fast growing, ready for harvest 3-4 weeks after sewing; more heat tolerant than other Chinese cabbages
• Semi-heading: several varieties, upright plant generally with long leaves forming a tapering head while growing upwards; slow growing taking more than 70 days; grows best in mild and slightly cold climates; suitable for fall crops
• Napa (Wombok, Wongbok, celery cabbage): heading type; most popular family of Chinese cabbages; forms a head with leaves and petioles when mature; tender and delicious; many varieties developed for various climates and areas

Pak Choy (Pac Choi, Bok Choy) Brassica rapa, Chinensis Group

• Small loose leaf, green petiole type: most popular vegetable grown and sold in markets on the West Coast; also called baby Bok Choy, Shanghai Bok Choy, Ching-Chiang Choy, or Ching-Kung Choy; fast growing with tender green leaves and crisp petioles; many varieties available adapted to different climates and seasons
• Large leaf, white petiole type: Glossy dark green leaves with long, large white petioles; grows best in mild and slightly cold climates; suitable for early spring and fall crops; may bolt in heat conditions

Tah Tsai (Tat soi) Brassica rapa var. rosularis, Perviridis Group
Very resistant to cold weather; spoon shaped dark green leaves arranged in a rosette of concentric circles, plants are short and rather slow growing

Gai Lan (Chinese broccoli, Chinese kale) Brassica oleracea
Glossy blue-green leaves, crisp thick stems; adapts well to cold and hot climates; after the first cutting of the main stem plant will grow many branches for succulent harvest

Chinese Mustard (Mustard cabbage, Gai Choy) Brassica juncea
Resistant to low temperatures the mustards grow best in temperate cool climates but not good in warm conditions; numerous varieties some being leafy on some forming heads or semi-heads in cold climates; has a mild flavor that increases in pungency as the plant matures
Heading: such as Bau-Siu, San-Ho Gent
Leafy: such as Broad leaf, Miiki Purple Giant, Japanese Red Giant

Komatsuna (Japanese Mustard Spinach) Brassica rapa
Neither a mustard or a spinach; young leaves, stalks and flower shoots used; fast growing this plant may be grown year round; ready for harvest in 35 days when sown in warm climate.

Yu Choy (Edible Rape, Green Choy Sum) Brassica rapa var. parachensis
Different from the oil seed rape grown in the West; mainly grown for harvesting young leaves and flowering stalks; plant picked when bolting; fast growing best for spring and fall

White Choy Sum Brassica chinensis or Brassica campestris
Very similar to the large white petiole type of Pak Choy but features more tender and delicious stems and flower buds; dwarf varieties often called baby Bok Choy

Minzuna Brassica rapa nipposinca group
Long slender white stalks and feathery dark green leaves; tolerant to both hot and cold weather conditions and can be grown year round; very vigorous and can be harvested as cut and come again

Mibuna Brassica rapa var. japonica
This typical Japanese green is very similar to Mizuna but with a stronger flavor; dark green narrow strap leaves; very vigorous and easy to grow, withstands cold very well so suited for fall and winter

Chinese Flower Cabbage (Naban) Brassica rapa parachenisis group
A flowering Chinese cabbage with Savoy leaves; young stalks and flower buds used; grows well in mild climates and can be harvested 40 days after sowing

Leaf Radish (Lo Bok, Daikon) Raphanus sativus
Specific varieties of radishes are grown exclusively for the greens; fast growing preferring cool weather.

Experimentation will be the best teacher as to which greens you ultimately prefer to grow or how you prepare them. Be a little daring and adventurous. Try something new and different. Enjoy the Choy of growing, cooking and eating Asian greens.

Seed sources: http://www.teritorialseed.com/, http://www.evergreenseed.com/, http://www.newdimensionseed.com/, http://www.kitazawaseed.com/

Recipe source: http://www.honeymancreekfarm.com/

GARDEN TO TABLE: SALLETS

Oh green and glorious, oh herbaceous treat.

T’would tempt the dying authority to eat.
Backward to earth, he’d turn his weary soul,
And plunge his fingers in the sallad bowl,
Serenely full, the epicure would say
“Fate cannot harm me – I have dined today!”
Poet Sidney Smith (1796)

Surviving the doldrums of winter, I look with great anticipation, as many fellow gardeners, to the fruits of our labor from orchard, berry patch and vegetable garden. Thinking most fondly of tastes remembered my mouth waters and stomach growls for the first vine ripened tomatoes, sweet melons, toothsome corn, fragrant little new potatoes or slender and crisp snap beans. Summer’s bounty is yet a long way off and body and soul need the nourishment of a spring tonic. I await the first green salad of the season with fervor and longing.

Growing up in western North Carolina, the first salad of the season was a mixture of wild greens my grandfather would gather – rocket, rape, dandelion, lambs quarters, pepper grass, Good King Henry – lightly dressed and wilted with smoky bacon drippings and sharp cider vinegar. Our blood was cleansed and we felt renewed after a long winter of preserved foods. Now, I can think of no greater joy than of taking basket to garden and picking fresh salad greens for dinner, washing them carefully and dressing lightly with a simple mixture of good olive oil and vinegar, mustard, garlic and fresh herbs. Fresh salad should be allowed to sing on center stage and any dressing an accompaniment bringing together all in harmony and balance.

Whereas lettuces are the foundation of a green salad, I enjoy a combination of greens to bring textural interest and flavor variation combining elements of sweet and savory, spicy or bitter. Depending on the season numerous elements abound that add interest to the many lettuces we can grow – tender pea tendrils, baby mustards, beet greens, or kale, arugula, spinach, various chicories (dandelion, endive, escarole, and radicchio), Mache, miner’s lettuce, pursulane, pepper cress, upland cress, watercress, beet berry and amaranth. Fresh herbs used in small quantities also add interest and flavor to the variety of mixed greens. Little snippets of fennel fronds, chives, garlic chives, basil, chervil, parsley, lovage, dill, mint, burnet, sorrel, borage, or costmary when used with restraint bring a new dimension to a fresh green salad. For fun and visual interest try adding some edible flowers such as viola, nasturtium, calendula petals, borage, or chive.

Since time immortal when agriculture took hold and man began to garden, salads were among the first plants to be cultivated. Colonists brought their favorite seeds to the New World, establish their gardens of sallets and potherbs, and dined on numerous varieties of these seasonal treasures. Interestingly enough, lettuce was not always served raw as they are used almost exclusively today. They can be cooked indeed and were normally eaten cooked till the time of Louis XVI when Chevalier d’Albignac dressed raw lettuce with vinaigrette.

Now in high culinary fashion, green leafy salads are commonly offered in numerous versions. Is it due to our determination to eat healthy? Is it because culinary fashion dictates we do so? Or is it perhaps merely a restaurant trick to appease our appetites while dinner preparations are being made. For me it is merely because I enjoy growing and eating salad greens fresh from the garden. No supermarket messes will ever compare to these in flavor, freshness and variety. Try growing your own. Salad greens are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow. One thing for sure, “bottled dressing – not on my fresh salad!”

Regarding Lettuce (Lactuca sativa sp.)
Since lettuces are a main component in most leafy green salads let us turn our attention to matter of the cultivation of lettuces. All lettuces are from the Asteraceae (formerly Compositae) family which includes many edible greens and some edible roots as well. The plant’s modern botanical name, Lactuca, comes from the Latin root word lac meaning milk because the sap of the plant has a thick, milky juice once thought to have significant medicinal properties. Today there are literally thousands of cultivars of lettuce – all sprung from wild lettuces from northern Europe, Asia, North Africa and parts of North America.

Lettuce Types
There are numerous varieties of lettuce types and cultivars. Seed Saver’s Exchange 2007 yearbook offers 297 varieties, a seemingly daunting number but knowing the classifications and similar characteristics within each classification can be of great use in determining which to plant.

• Heading lettuces (“iceberg lettuce”): Require more growing space, have longer growing times, more likely to bolt, more susceptible to pests and disease, have less nutritive value, and have less flavor.
• Romaine lettuces (Cos lettuces): Known since Roman times; achieved fame in America with the popularity of Caesar salad; crisp texture with a distinctive faintly bitter flavor; some heat tolerance
• Batavian lettuces: One of the best tasting lettuce types but generally unknown in the U.S.; hardiest of all lettuce types withstanding summer heat and winter cold; described as semi-heading as it neither forms a true head or nor described as a looseleaf either; some head more than others
• Butterhead (Buttercrunch, Bibb, Boston, Limehead): Very soft and buttery texture with delicate flavor; small varieties may be used as one person salad; some heat tolerance
• Looseleaf lettuces: Many broad types with numerous variants; can be divided into green and red (purple-tinged or bronze); especially favored as a component of mixed baby salad greens; best grown in cool weather as it tends to bolt or become bitter in the summer heat

Culture
Lettuces are by nature one of the most hardy of cool season plants. By choice of variety and different cultural practices it is possible to grow tasty salad greens in our area almost year round. Lettuces can be planted as early as the soil can be worked. Many do best when the air temperature is between 60°- 70° F but will germinate well in soil temperatures as low as 40° F. Lettuces can be direct seeded or transplanted in spring or fall and no special considerations.
For summer choose heat tolerant verities such as Batavian, Romaine or Butterhead. Your seed catalogues provide excellent information on each variety particularly listing heat tolerant varieties. I prefer to use transplants for summer plantings as the seed tends to be difficult to germinate when planted directly in the garden. It is also helpful to offer summer lettuces with some modicum of shade to mitigate summers heat. This can be accomplished by using some shading fabric, some latticed slats or planting in an area that is shaded for a portion of the day (particularly mid day sun).

For winter planting choose the best cold tolerant varieties (again refer to your seed catalogues). Although some lettuces can supposedly withstand air temperatures down to as low as 20° F offering protection seems to be the best option for a continual supply of salad greens throughout the winter. The measures used do not have to be as drastic as a greenhouse but can be as simple as some sort of crude cold frame or tunnel cloche. I find transplants work well with this type of system.

Lettuces are heavy feeders and prefer soil that is enriched with compost or well rotted manure requiring moderately fertile soil. The use of raised beds is a particularly effective way to grow salad greens. Whereas the lettuce bed can ultimately provide greens year round best practices dictate that the bed is moved annually to minimize soil-disease risks.

Direct Sow either in rows or broadcast in a wide bed (good practice for baby greens). Plant seeds _ to _ inch deep 1 inch apart with rows 16 to 18 inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly but firmly and gently water in. After 2 to 3 true leaves have formed, thin looseleaf varieties 10 to 14 inches apart and Romaine, Batavian, and Bibb varieties 12 to 16 inches apart.

Transplants are started by sowing 3 to 4 seeds into 1 inch cell trays filled with sterile seedling mix 3 to 4 weeks prior to planting out, 4 weeks being best in summer and winter periods. Try to keep them below 65° F. Harden off plants for 2 or 3 days before planting in the garden bed, reducing their water and the ambient temperature.

Water lettuces well and regularly. Harvest may be made at various stages of growth depending on whether you want baby greens or the entire plant when it reaches moderate growth. By far younger lettuces are sweeter and tenderer and have a tendency to become somewhat tough and bitter if allowed to become too mature. This is particularly true of summer grown lettuces. On the average lettuces spend up to six weeks in the garden bed depending on season, the weather and the variety. Remember lettuces grow slowly in quite cool weather and quickly in warm weather. Again cultivar selection is important in relation to the growing season. With some careful selection, planning and season extending techniques it is fairly easy to have delicious fresh green “sallet” year round.